Bhutan: A Destination That Stays With You

Karen Majsay of Low & James Travel Associates in Neutral Bay and Jo Kennedy of Kennedy & Turner Travel Associates in Brisbane each bring more than 30 years of travel experience. Between them, they’ve explored much of the world, yet Bhutan, the last remaining Himalayan Kingdom, was a first.

After travelling through Bhutan with &Beyond, they returned with one clear takeaway: this is not simply another luxury destination. Bhutan asks something different of you: physically, culturally and spiritually, and in return, it gives you something deeply lasting.

Bhutan is not a destination you experience from the window of a car. Many of its most important sites are reached only on foot, and walking is central to understanding the rhythm of the country. Over nine days, Karen and Jo walked through villages in Thimphu, hiked the Gangtey-Phobji Nature Trail, and climbed to Khamsum Yuelley Namgyal Chorten, where sweeping valley views were matched with a beautifully prepared breakfast at the summit.

The most defining walk, however, was the ascent to Taktsang Monastery (better known as Tiger’s Nest) - the highlight of many traveller's Bhutan itinerary. Clinging to a sheer cliff face nearly 3,000 metres above sea level, the monastery is accessible only via a challenging five hour hike through pine forest. When Jo’s shoe gave way mid-hike, Dorji offered one of his own - a reflection of the generosity and kindness woven through Bhutanese life.

“I’m not an extreme athlete,” Jo said. “But when you arrive, you understand why the monks chose this place.”

While Bhutan’s landscapes are striking, it is the country’s spiritual life that leaves the strongest impression. In Thimphu, Karen and Jo spent time with Mynak Tulku, a Buddhist teacher who spoke openly about Bhutanese life and spirituality. In Gangtey, they attended evening prayers where monks chanted and played music, the rhythm filling the space in a way that felt both grounding and quietly powerful. In Punakha, a visit to the Sangchhen Dorji Lhuendrup Nunnery offered another perspective, as young girls moved between prayer and curiosity, asking questions and engaging warmly with their visitors.

One of the most personal moments came when Karen and Jo made prayer flags using a 300-year-old timber stencil, later placing them along the route to Tiger’s Nest. In Paro, they watched a monk create a mandala using coloured sand and just two fingers, a process that took hours and demanded complete focus.

“You can’t help but be immersed quite deeply,” Karen reflected.

Bhutanese cuisine was another surprise. Neither advisor expected food to stand out, yet it became a memorable part of the journey. From ema datshi, the national dish of chilli and cheese, to carefully presented soups and stews, meals were both comforting and distinctive. A cooking class using ingredients sourced from a local market, along with learning to make ara, a traditional rice spirit enjoyed at celebrations, offered insight into everyday Bhutanese life.

Karen and Jo stayed at four very different properties, each exceptional in its own way.

Postcard Dewa in Thimphu is a small boutique hotel surrounded by forest, about 20 minutes from the capital, with excellent service and food.

Gangtey Lodge is built like a Bhutanese farmhouse using stone and wood, with 12 suites that have underfloor heating, wood-burning stoves, and sweeping valley views. "Waking up here feels like living inside a dream," Jo says.

&Beyond Punakha River Lodge was Karen's favourite. It's at a lower altitude than most properties, built in traditional Bhutanese style along the Mo Chu river. "You fall asleep to the sound of the water. It feels intimate, like you're part of the family."

COMO Uma Paro sits on the slopes of the Paro Valley with nine villas and 20 rooms that blend Bhutanese craftsmanship with modern design, and it was the base for their Tiger's Nest adventure.

Karen recommends Bhutan for those who love to be outdoors and like walking, as the only way to get to many of the temples is on foot. “Many of the on-mountain hotels also have many stairs, and sometimes you need to walk across a suspension bridge. In the higher altitudes, this can be difficult for some. &Beyond Punakha River Lodge, being lower and on the river, is easier to navigate.”

Jo agrees and also will be recommending Bhutan to those who are open to different cultures and religions. Learning about Buddhism becomes a pivotal and memorable part of the experience. “Bhutan is one of those destinations that will stick in my mind forever. It truly has made its mark on me.”